OOEE Culinary Collective

When you think of a high summer Outrageous Outdoor Eating Event (OOEE) — which I write about on our Track #6 educational channel you would be thinking of a large-scale event with food at the center and an intriguing theme wrapped around that outdoor meal. For instance, a sprawling outdoor farm or ranch gathering with friends, food, music, and maybe a roaring fire pit — your mind probably jumps to grilled meats, garden salads, local beers, and sangria.

But, with the hot weather about to hit… let me introduce one of the coolest secret weapons in our Track #6 culinary arsenal: a rich, retro, and ridiculously refreshing chocolate frappe. Or better yet, let’s call it by its real Rhode Island name: the Awful Awful.

🍫 What Is the Awful Awful?

Rhode Island’s famous milkshake-like drink, the Awful Awful, got its name from a phrase once used by the New Jersey-based Bond’s Ice Cream chain: “Awful big and awful good.” Newport Creamery made it a household name throughout New England. But this wasn’t just a chocolate shake. It was:

• Frothy, not gloopy

• Made with real milk, not soft serve

• Poured tall in metal or glass soda fountain tumblers

• And thick enough to nearly stop your straw cold

🥤Frappe vs. Milkshake vs. Awful Awful — What's the Difference?

This comparison highlights how three similar beverages vary based on texture, ingredients, and regional naming.

Beverage Texture Key Ingredients Regional Term

Milkshake Light & sippableIce cream + milk Common across the U.S.

Frappe Thicker, colderIce cream + ice milk New England

Awful Awful Frothy, extra creamyIce milk + syrup + milk Rhode Island only

The Awful Awful stood out because it used ice milk — lower in fat than ice cream — which allowed it to be whipped into a dreamy foam that felt lighter and more gulpable on a hot day. Perfect for large gatherings, where heavy cream-based shakes might be too rich.

🏕️ Why It Belongs in Your Outdoor Party Lineup (OOEE Secrets)

At 1782Farm.com’s Outrageous Outdoor Eating Events™, we serve 80 to 200 guests at a time — and while flame-grilled dishes grab the spotlight, the frappe bar is our coolest surprise.

Here's Why It Works:

• Simple ingredients (milk, syrup, malt, ice milk) scale beautifully

• Can be prepped in advance and blended to order

• Kids love it, adults love it, and add-ins turn it gourmet

• It pairs brilliantly with:

  • Fire-grilled swordfish

  • Brick-pressed lemon chicken

  • Spicy farm curries

Track #6 Secret:

We call it the "Frosted Frappe” (aka The Awful Awful imitator) and offer different versions in engraved chalices (or mason jars for the rustic crowd) with mint leaves, nutmeg, or even a splash of rum for the after-dark crowd.

🧪 Why the Weird Add-ins Work

Now let’s talk ingredients you didn’t see coming — the Track #6 twist:

🌾 Dried Milk Solids

Used in old-fashioned soda fountains to add depth without bulk. It:

• Boosts creaminess

• Balances sweetness

• Supports whipped structure

🧂 Xanthan Gum

A tiny pinch goes a long way:

• Prevents separation in hot weather

• Adds silkiness

• Keeps the texture cloud-like even as it sits

🥚 French Vanilla Custard Base

The true soda jerk’s move but this ups the complexity of the recipe:

• Cook egg yolks + sugar + vanilla bean into a creamy base

• Freeze it as your frappe base or stir into the blender

• Adds “bougie” levels of flavor for high-end OOEE settings

🌿 Peppermint Tincture + York Peppermint Patties

Our Chocolate-Mint Variation brings herbal cool to a chocolate core:

• Use just a few drops of home-brewed peppermint tincture

• Add one whole peppermint patty per serving to the blender

• Garnish with cacao nibs or mint sprigs

🧾 OOEE-Approved Chocolate Frappe (Awful Awful Style)

Ingredients (per 2 servings):

• ¾ cup whole milk, ice-cold

• 2 tbsp milk powder

• 2 tbsp malted milk powder

• ¼ tsp xanthan gum

• ½ tsp pure vanilla extract

• 2 tbsp high-quality chocolate syrup

• ½ cup French vanilla custard-style ice cream

• 1 cup ice milk (or light vanilla frozen yogurt)

Blend until just frothy. Top with whipped cream, crushed malt balls, or herbal dusting.

🔥 Track #6 Tip: Serve These in “Treasure Chalices”

Whether it’s a kids’ party or an adults-only firelight gathering, present your frappe:

• In wide glass jars tied with herb sprigs

• In branded metal mugs chilled with dry ice fog

• Or in themed “OOEE” labeled chalices for premium parties

This isn’t just a drink — it’s part of the performance.

📜 Our Secret is Now Yours!

The humble frappe — and its cousin the Awful Awful — may have started in diners and soda shops, but in the right hands, it’s an Outrageous Outdoor Eating Event centerpiece. It’s affordable, scalable, nostalgic, and elevated with Track #6 secrets.

Until next time...

I am...

Phil Wilson...

And here’s to living an Herbal Lifestyle With You — one frosty chocolate shake, Frappe or Awful Awful, at a time.

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A Preview of Our Track #2 Post for Pro Members

Something beautiful is happening at Roadstead Farms.

This season, we are preparing to welcome a large planting of Sensational Lavender, a newer lavender cultivar that has been turning heads among gardeners, herb lovers, and small farm growers. For our Simples & Worts Herbal Apothecary community, this is exciting because lavender is one of those rare plants that brings together beauty, fragrance, pollinators, craft, kitchen curiosity, and old-fashioned herbal charm.

Lavender has always had a special place in the herbal home. It can line a path, soften a fence, perfume a room, fill sachets, dry into bundles, and create that unmistakable feeling of calm garden abundance. Even people who do not consider themselves gardeners often know and love lavender.

But not all lavender is the same.

Some lavender varieties are better suited to dry Mediterranean conditions. Some are more delicate. Some struggle with humidity. Some are better for fresh display, others for drying, fragrance, or landscape massing. That is why choosing the right lavender matters — especially here in New England, where winter wet, summer humidity, and sandy soil can all influence success.

Why We’re Excited About Sensational Lavender

Sensational Lavender is especially appealing because it has the kind of form and fragrance that can make a garden feel special almost immediately.

It offers:

• Handsome silvery foliage

• Beautiful purple flower spikes

• Strong visual presence in the landscape

• Classic lavender fragrance

• Pollinator appeal

• Potential for cutting, drying, bundling, and crafting

For our purposes at Roadstead Farms, this lavender is not just a plant. It is part of a larger vision.

We want lavender to help shape the feeling of the property. We imagine it along sunny slopes, near paths, in herb borders, and as part of our broader living apothecary landscape. It will support the look and spirit of our Roadstead Farms homestead while also giving our Simples & Worts members a living example of how herbal plants can become part of everyday beauty.

Lavender as More Than a Pretty Plant

Lavender is pretty, yes.

But it is also practical.

Once established, lavender can be used in many simple, grounded ways:

Fresh bundles for the table
Dried bundles for the kitchen or pantry
Sachets for drawers and linen shelves
Wreaths and seasonal décor
Herbal craft projects
Garden photography
Pollinator plantings
Herb-garden demonstrations
Small gifts for friends and guests

Lavender also teaches one of the most important herbal gardening lessons:

The right plant in the right place matters.

Lavender wants sun. It wants drainage. It does not want to sit in soggy soil. It prefers a leaner, well-drained life over a rich, wet one. That makes it a wonderful teacher for anyone learning how to match plant needs to garden conditions.

A Preview of Our Track #2 Commercial Article

For our Track #2 professional and small-farm members, we are also preparing a deeper article on Sensational Lavender as a possible commercial specialty crop.

That article will look at the business side, including:

• How lavender can become a small-farm product line

• How to think about bundles, dried products, sachets, wreaths, and seasonal gifts

• How lavender can support farm storytelling and agritourism

• How growers should think about spacing, harvest, drying, packaging, and pricing

• Why lavender should be treated as both a crop and a brand asset

That Track #2 article is written for people who are thinking beyond the home garden — growers, market gardeners, homesteaders, farm entrepreneurs, and small business builders who want to understand how a beautiful herb can become part of a revenue-producing product ladder.

For Track #1, we simply want you to enjoy the excitement of the plant itself.

What This Means for Our Members

As the season unfolds, we will share what we learn from planting, caring for, harvesting, and using this lavender at Roadstead Farms.

We will be watching:

How it performs in our conditions
How it looks in mass plantings
How pollinators respond
How well it dries
How it works in bundles and craft projects
How it contributes to the overall feeling of the homestead

And, of course, we will share ideas you can use in your own garden, porch pots, raised beds, cottage borders, and herbal landscapes.

Sidebar on Phenomenal French Lavender

Phenomenal French Hybrid Lavender (Lavandula intermedia ‘Phenomenal’ PP24193) is a French hybrid lavender notable for its outstanding cold hardiness and ability to grow in climates with extreme heat and humidity. The plant is a medium-sized grower with nice gray-green foliage and blooms with purple flowers on tall stems in mid-summer.

Requirements: Full Sun, USDA Zones 5 - 9

‘Phenomenal’ Lavender was discovered by a commercial herb grower in Pennsylvania. This cultivar has been grown successfully across much of the country. The cultivar has been found to be more tolerant of moisture and high humidity.

‘Phenomenal’ Lavender is a zone more cold-hardy lavender than most other French hybrid lavenders. It is reliably hardy to zone 5. It has survived in zone 4 gardens if planted in a protected area. Drought tolerance is possible, too, once it is established. Prune after flowering and before the end of September to keep your Phenomenal plants compact.

· Mature Height: 30-32” tall

· Mature Spread: 24-32” wide

· Bloom Time: Mid-summer to early fall

Closing Thought

Lavender is one of the great doorway herbs.

It invites people into the herbal life through fragrance, beauty, memory, and simple usefulness. A single plant can charm a garden. A group of plants can transform a path. A field or slope of lavender can become a signature.

That is why we are so excited to bring Sensational Lavender into the Roadstead Farms landscape.

For our free Track #1 members, consider this your early invitation:

Watch with us.
Learn with us.
Dream with us.
And perhaps plant a little lavender of your own.

The herbal life often begins with one plant that makes you stop, breathe, and smile. For many of us, lavender is that plant.

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There is something almost magical about natural dyeing.

A pot of onion skins becomes gold.
Black walnut hulls become brown.
Madder root becomes red.
Weld becomes yellow.
Indigo becomes blue.
Marigolds, avocado pits, sumac, goldenrod, tea, acorns, and berries all begin to look different once we understand that color may be hiding inside them.

For the Simples & Worts Herbal Apothecary community, natural dyeing is a perfect meeting place between herbs, history, craft, the kitchen, the garden, and the older household arts. It is practical and beautiful. It rewards patience. It encourages us to notice plants more closely. And it reminds us that the old herbal world was never only about teas, tinctures, and seasonings. Plants were also used to color cloth, yarn, thread, paper, baskets, leather, and everyday objects.

Natural dyeing is the art of extracting color from natural materials and transferring that color to fiber. A mordant is the substance that helps bind the dye to the fiber so the color lasts longer and resists washing and fading.

That is the simple version.

The richer version is this: natural dyeing is a conversation among plant, water, heat, fiber, mineral, time, and human judgment.

And once you begin, you may never look at a compost pile, herb garden, or woodland path in quite the same way again.

A Very Old Household Art

Before synthetic dyes transformed the textile world in the 19th century, color came from nature. People used plants, insects, lichens, minerals, bark, leaves, roots, flowers, seeds, hulls, and wood. Some colors were common and local. Others were costly, traded, guarded, taxed, or treated as luxury goods.

Dyeing was not just a decorative craft. It was part of daily life and commerce.

Color could signal:

• Wealth

• Trade connections

• Regional identity

• Occupation

• Religious use

• Military rank

• Household skill

• Fashion

• Ceremony

• Mourning

• Celebration

A plain homespun cloth might be left undyed or colored with local materials. A wealthier household might have brighter, more stable, or more labor-intensive colors. A professional dyer might know secrets of timing, mordanting, repeated dipping, and combining materials to produce colors that ordinary households could not easily repeat.

For the modern herbal maker, natural dyeing reconnects us with that world. We begin to understand why some colors were prized, why some plants were cultivated specifically for dye, and why knowledge of mordants mattered.

The color was not merely “in” the plant.

It had to be coaxed out, captured, fixed, and cared for.

What Is a Natural Dye?

A natural dye is a coloring material derived from a natural source.

Common natural dye sources include:

• Flowers

• Leaves

• Roots

• Bark

• Wood

• Seeds

• Nuts and hulls

• Fruit skins

• Vegetable scraps

• Tea and coffee

• Lichens

• Minerals

• Insects, in some traditions

For our Simples & Worts purposes, we will focus mostly on plant and kitchen-based dyes.

Some famous dye plants include:

Madder for reds, rusts, and oranges
Weld for strong yellows
Woad and indigo for blues
Black walnut for browns
Onion skins for golds and ochres
Marigolds for yellows and oranges
Goldenrod for yellow
Sumac for tannin-rich color work
Avocado pits and skins for pinks and soft rose tones
Tea and coffee for tans and browns
Logwood for purples, grays, and blacks
Osage orange for yellow
Pomegranate rind for yellows, tans, and tannin-rich dyeing

Some of these are easy for beginners. Others are more complex. Indigo, for example, is famous and beautiful, but it requires a vat process that is different from a simple simmered dye bath.

For a starter project, begin with onion skins, black tea, marigolds, goldenrod, or avocado pits. They are forgiving, accessible, and rewarding.

What Is a Mordant?

A mordant is a substance that helps dye attach to fiber.

The word comes from an old idea of “biting” or “holding.” A mordant helps the color take hold more firmly. Without a mordant, some dyes wash out quickly, fade faster, or never bond well to the material.

Think of it this way:

The plant gives the color.
The fiber receives the color.
The mordant helps the relationship last.

Common mordants and mordant-like materials include:

• Alum

• Iron

• Copper

• Tannins

• Soy milk, in some cellulose-fiber traditions

• Cream of tartar, often used as an assistant with alum

• Vinegar or salt, sometimes used for certain kitchen dye projects, though they are not true mordants in the same way alum or iron are

For beginners, alum is often considered the friendliest standard mordant for wool and other protein fibers when used properly. It helps many plant colors appear clearer and more lasting.

Iron is often used as a modifier. It can darken colors, shift yellows toward olive, soften bright tones, and create grays or charcoals with tannin-rich plants. Too much iron can weaken fibers, so it should be used lightly.

Tannins occur naturally in many plants, including oak galls, sumac, pomegranate rind, tea, and some barks and leaves. Tannins are especially useful when dyeing plant fibers such as cotton or linen.

A mordant is not merely a technical detail. It is often the difference between a pretty experiment and a usable textile.

Fiber Matters: Wool, Silk, Cotton, and Linen

Not all fibers behave the same way.

The two big categories are:

Protein fibers
These come from animals. Examples: wool, alpaca, silk.

Cellulose fibers
These come from plants. Examples: cotton, linen, hemp.

Protein fibers usually take natural dyes more readily. Wool and silk are often easier for beginners because they bond well with many natural dyes when properly mordanted.

Cellulose fibers can be more challenging. Cotton and linen often need a tannin step and careful mordanting to achieve good results.

This is one reason a beginner may feel successful dyeing wool yarn with onion skins but disappointed dyeing a cotton napkin with the same pot. The issue may not be the plant. It may be the fiber preparation.

For a first project, try:

• Wool yarn

• A silk scarf

• Small wool felt pieces

• Wool roving

• Pre-mordanted cotton fabric, if available

Once you understand the basics, move on to cotton and linen with more confidence.

The Basic Natural Dye Process

Natural dyeing can become very sophisticated, but the basic process is easy to understand.

Step 1: Prepare the fiber

The fiber should be clean. This is called scouring.

Even new fabric or yarn may contain oils, spinning residues, sizing, or dirt that block dye from taking evenly.

Wool should be washed gently. Cotton and linen may need a more thorough wash.

Step 2: Mordant the fiber

The mordant step prepares the fiber to receive the dye.

For wool, a common beginner method is to soak the wool in warm water with dissolved alum, then heat gently and allow it to cool in the mordant bath.

For cotton and linen, a tannin step may come first, followed by alum or another mordanting approach.

Step 3: Prepare the dye material

Chop, crush, soak, or simmer the plant material depending on what it is.

Some materials benefit from soaking overnight. Others can be simmered for an hour or two.

Step 4: Make the dye bath

Simmer the plant material in water, then strain out solids if desired. The colored liquid becomes the dye bath.

Step 5: Dye the fiber

Add the wet, mordanted fiber to the dye bath. Heat gently. Avoid shocking wool with sudden temperature changes, which can cause felting.

Let the fiber sit in the dye bath until the desired color develops.

Step 6: Cool, rinse, and dry

Let the fiber cool. Rinse gently until the water runs mostly clear. Dry away from harsh direct sun.

Step 7: Record everything

This is the most important step if you want to learn.

Write down:

• Plant material

• Amount used

• Fiber type

• Mordant

• Water amount

• Heating time

• Soaking time

• Color result

• Any modifiers used

• Final impression

Natural dyeing rewards note-taking.

Without notes, a beautiful color becomes a lucky accident. With notes, it becomes a recipe.

A Simple Beginner Dye Project: Onion Skin Gold

Onion skins are one of the best beginner dye materials. They are easy to collect, safe to handle in ordinary kitchen conditions, and surprisingly generous with color.

Materials

• Dry yellow onion skins

• Clean wool yarn or small fabric sample

• Alum-mordanted fiber

• Stainless steel pot

• Water

• Spoon or tongs

• Strainer

Method

Collect a good handful or two of dry onion skins. The more skins, the richer the color.

Place them in a pot and cover with water. Simmer gently for about 45 minutes to an hour. The water should turn golden brown.

Strain out the skins if you want a cleaner bath.

Add your wetted, mordanted fiber. Simmer gently, without boiling hard, until the color looks good. This may take 30 minutes to an hour.

Let the fiber cool in the dye bath for deeper color.

Rinse gently and dry.

Color results

Yellow onion skins may produce:

• Gold

• Honey

• Ochre

• Warm tan

• Bronze-orange tones

Onion skin dye is the kind of project that makes a person say, “Wait — that came from kitchen scraps?”

Yes, it did.

That is the delight.

Natural Dye Plants for the Simples & Worts Garden

A dye garden can be its own special feature, or dye plants can be woven into a cottage garden, herb border, potager, or edible landscape.

Here are some lovely candidates.

Marigold

Marigolds are cheerful, easy, and useful for yellow and golden tones. For a softer Simples & Worts palette, choose cream, pale yellow, or muted varieties, though the stronger orange types can produce more intense dye.

Calendula

Calendula is a classic herbal flower and a good bridge between apothecary tradition and dye work. It can produce soft yellows and golden tones.

Coreopsis

Coreopsis can produce strong yellows, oranges, and sometimes warmer tones. It is a beautiful dye plant, though the colors may be bolder than a soft cottage palette.

Goldenrod

Goldenrod is excellent for yellow. It is also pollinator-friendly and abundant in many places. Be sure you are harvesting responsibly and correctly identifying the plant.

Madder

Madder root is famous for reds, corals, pinks, rusts, and oranges depending on method and mordant. It is a classic dye plant worth exploring if you become serious.

Weld

Weld is one of the great traditional yellow dye plants. It is not always as common in modern gardens, but it deserves a place in a dedicated dye bed.

Woad

Woad is a traditional blue dye plant, though processing it is more involved than simmering onion skins. It is historically fascinating.

Black Walnut

Black walnut hulls produce rich browns and can often dye without a separate mordant because they contain strong tannins. They are powerful, staining, and messy — in the best possible way.

Sumac

Sumac is useful because it is tannin-rich. It can support dye processes and produce soft tones depending on method.

Hollyhock

Dark hollyhocks can produce interesting colors, sometimes gray, blue, purple, or muted tones, though results vary.

Avocado Pits and Skins

Avocado pits and skins can produce soft pinks, rose, peach, or blush tones. This is a favorite modern natural dye project because the results can feel surprisingly romantic.

Mordants in More Detail

Mordants deserve respect.

They are useful, but they should be handled carefully. Natural dyeing is often described as gentle and earthy, and it can be, but mordants are still chemical substances.

Always label materials clearly. Do not use dye pots for food afterward unless you are only working with food-safe materials and no mordants. Many serious dyers keep dedicated dye equipment.

Wear gloves when appropriate. Avoid breathing powders. Keep children and pets away from mordant materials. Follow supplier directions.

Alum

Alum is commonly used in natural dyeing. It often produces clear, bright colors and is a good starting mordant for wool.

Iron

Iron darkens and shifts colors. It can turn yellows to olive, tans to gray, and tannin-rich dyes toward black or charcoal.

Use iron lightly. Too much can make fiber harsh or brittle over time.

Copper

Copper has historical use but is less beginner-friendly and carries more safety and environmental concerns. I would not recommend it as a starting mordant for casual home dyers.

Tannin

Tannin is especially important for cotton and linen. Tannin-rich materials include oak galls, sumac, pomegranate rind, tea, and some barks.

Cream of Tartar

Cream of tartar is often used with alum on wool. It can help soften fiber and influence color brightness, depending on the recipe.

Modifiers: Changing the Color After Dyeing

A modifier is used to shift a color after dyeing.

For example, a yellow-dyed wool sample dipped briefly in iron water may turn olive green or gray-green.

Modifiers can be fascinating because they show how one dye bath can produce several colors.

Common modifiers include:

• Iron water

• Vinegar

• Baking soda

• Copper, with caution

• pH changes

A simple experiment might produce three samples from one dye bath:

1. Original color

2. Iron-modified color

3. Vinegar or alkaline-shifted color

This is a wonderful educational project for a garden club, craft group, or Simples & Worts workshop.

The Beauty of Imperfection

Synthetic dyes are often predictable. Natural dyes are more alive.

Results vary with:

• Plant variety

• Soil

• Season

• Fresh or dried material

• Water chemistry

• Fiber type

• Mordant

• Pot material

• Heat

• Time

• pH

• Harvest stage

This is not a flaw. It is part of the beauty.

Natural dyeing teaches us to pay attention.

The same marigold may not produce exactly the same yellow every time. Avocado pits may turn pink one day and beige another. Black walnut may produce deep brown on wool but a lighter tan on cotton. Iron may shift a color beautifully or make it too dull.

The dyer learns by doing.

That is why sample cards are so valuable.

Make a Natural Dye Sample Book

For Simples & Worts members, one of the best projects is a natural dye sample book.

Use small squares of fabric or short lengths of yarn.

For each sample, record:

• Dye plant

• Part used

• Fresh or dried

• Fiber type

• Mordant

• Date

• Time in dye bath

• Modifier

• Final color

• Notes

Attach the sample to an index card or page.

Over time, this becomes your personal color apothecary.

It is beautiful, practical, and deeply satisfying.

A dye sample book also makes an excellent small business or workshop teaching tool. It lets people see the range of colors possible from familiar plants.

Natural Dyeing as a Homestead Skill

Natural dyeing belongs beautifully in a modern homesteading life.

It encourages:

• Growing useful flowers

• Saving kitchen scraps

• Learning plant identification

• Reducing waste

• Making gifts

• Creating seasonal crafts

• Teaching children about plants

• Recording observations

• Connecting garden and household

Imagine a Roadstead Farms workshop where guests collect marigolds, onion skins, black walnut hulls, lavender stems, and goldenrod, then dye small silk scarves, wool yarn, or linen ribbons.

Imagine a Simples & Worts gift set with naturally dyed ribbon around herbal sachets or tea blends.

Imagine a cottage garden border that is not only beautiful but capable of producing dye for fabric, thread, or paper.

This is how the old household arts become modern again.

Not as nostalgia.

As useful beauty.

Natural Dye Safety Notes

Natural does not automatically mean harmless.

Some plants are toxic. Some mordants require caution. Some dye materials stain heavily. Some fumes or powders should be avoided. Some plants should not be harvested from roadsides, polluted ground, treated lawns, or protected areas.

Basic safety rules:

• Correctly identify all plants.

• Use dedicated dye pots and tools.

• Keep mordants labeled and away from children and pets.

• Wear gloves when handling mordants or strong dyes.

• Avoid breathing mordant powders.

• Do not dump mordant baths irresponsibly.

• Research local disposal guidance when using metal salts.

• Do not use toxic plants casually.

• Never assume a plant is safe because it is pretty.

• Do not eat dye plants unless they are known edible plants prepared appropriately.

For beginners, start with simple, familiar materials such as onion skins, tea, coffee, marigolds, and avocado pits.

Build confidence before handling more advanced mordants or dye processes.

A Beginner’s Natural Dye Kit

Here is a simple starter kit:

• Dedicated stainless steel pot

• Wooden or stainless spoon

• Fine mesh strainer

• Gloves

• Kitchen scale

• Measuring spoons

• Glass jars

• Labels

• Notebook

• Alum mordant

• Cream of tartar, optional

• Wool yarn or fabric samples

• Onion skins

• Black tea

• Marigold flowers

• Avocado pits and skins

With this small kit, you can begin exploring color immediately.

Five Easy Natural Dye Experiments

1. Onion Skin Gold

Use yellow onion skins on alum-mordanted wool.

2. Tea Tan

Use strong black tea on cotton or wool for soft beige, tan, or antique tones.

3. Avocado Pink

Simmer cleaned avocado pits and skins slowly for blush or rose tones.

4. Marigold Yellow

Use fresh or dried marigold petals for yellow and gold.

5. Walnut Brown

Use black walnut hulls for strong browns. Wear gloves and use dedicated tools.

Each of these teaches a different lesson.

Onion teaches abundance.
Tea teaches simplicity.
Avocado teaches surprise.
Marigold teaches garden color.
Walnut teaches strength.

Natural Dyes and the Herbal Lifestyle

Natural dyeing fits the Simples & Worts world because it is about relationship.

We learn which plants stain.
Which flowers give color.
Which roots hold history.
Which leaves contain tannins.
Which kitchen scraps still have value.
Which fibers receive color willingly.
Which mordants clarify, darken, or strengthen.
Which experiments are worth repeating.

It is slow enough to make us pay attention.

That may be the greatest gift.

In a fast world, natural dyeing asks us to simmer, soak, wait, rinse, dry, observe, and try again.

It is not instant.

But neither is a garden.

Sidebar: Best Starter Dye Plants for a Simples & Worts Garden

For a beginner dye garden, try:

• Calendula

• Marigold

• Coreopsis

• Goldenrod

• Madder

• Weld

• Hollyhock

• Sunflower petals

• Black-eyed Susan

• Purple basil, experimentally

• Sumac, where appropriate

• Dyer’s chamomile

Blend these into your ornamental and herbal beds. A dye garden does not have to look like a work area. It can be beautiful.

Sidebar: What Colors Can You Expect?

Natural dyes often produce softer, earthier colors than modern synthetic dyes.

Expect:

• Gold

• Ochre

• Tan

• Brown

• Olive

• Soft yellow

• Peach

• Rose

• Rust

• Gray

• Mauve

• Blue, with special processes

• Green, often through overdyeing or modification

Very bright, permanent, electric colors are not usually the goal.

The charm is in subtlety.

Natural color looks as if it belongs to the world.

Closing Thoughts

Natural dyes and mordants invite us into one of the oldest and most beautiful household arts.

They teach that color is not only purchased. It can be grown, gathered, saved, simmered, and coaxed from ordinary things.

A basket of onion skins.
A handful of marigolds.
A jar of avocado pits.
A windfall of black walnuts.
A row of dye flowers in the garden.
A skein of wool waiting quietly in a pot.

This is the kind of work that makes a person feel connected: to plants, to textiles, to history, to the kitchen, to the garden, and to the patient wisdom of making something by hand.

The starter herb garden leads naturally to the dye garden.
The dye garden leads to craft.
Craft leads to gifts.
Gifts lead to stories.
Stories lead to community.

That is the Simples & Worts way.

Grow something useful.
Learn what it offers.
Treat it with respect.
Share the beauty.

Until Next Time…

I am…

Phil Wilson…

And, Here’s to Living an Herbal Lifestyle With You!

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A starter herb garden should not feel intimidating.

It should feel inviting.

It should be manageable, beautiful, fragrant, and rewarding almost immediately. That is the charm of herbs. You do not need a huge garden, years of experience, or a complicated plan to begin. A sunny porch, a few sturdy pots, a small raised bed, or a narrow strip near the kitchen door can produce remarkable herbs for everyday cooking, simple gifts, outdoor meals, and the pure pleasure of walking past something fragrant and alive.

At Simples & Worts Herbal Apothecary, we love the starter herb garden because it is the doorway into a richer herbal lifestyle. It teaches you to notice the seasons, welcome pollinators, harvest with care, and bring fresh flavor from the garden to the table.

Why Start Small?

The best herb garden is the one you actually use.

Many new gardeners make the mistake of starting too big. They imagine a grand formal herb garden with paths, labels, arches, beds, and dozens of plants. That dream is wonderful, but the first step should be simpler.

Start with a garden you can manage in ten minutes.

A few pots by the kitchen door.
A small raised bed.
A sunny corner of the patio.
A window box.
A neat border beside a walkway.

When the garden is close, visible, and easy to reach, you will use it more often. You will step outside for basil, chives, thyme, mint, or parsley. You will notice when the soil is dry. You will see flowers forming. You will clip regularly. The garden becomes part of your daily rhythm.

Small is not a weakness.

Small is how confidence grows.

The Ideal Location

Most culinary herbs prefer the same basic conditions:

Six or more hours of sunlight
Well-drained soil
Good airflow
Moderate watering
Easy access for harvesting

Sun is especially important for Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano, and lavender. These plants like bright light and soil that does not stay wet for long.

If you have only partial sun, you can still grow useful herbs. Chives, parsley, mint, lemon balm, and some cilantro may tolerate less sun, especially in hot weather. But for the classic sunny herb garden, choose the brightest practical spot.

A kitchen-door location is ideal. Herbs are most valuable when they are convenient. If you have to walk across the yard in the rain to harvest them, you may not use them as often. If they are right by the door, they become part of supper.

The Perfect Starter Herb Collection

Here is a dependable starter collection for beginners.

Basil

Basil is the taste of summer. It loves warmth, sun, and regular clipping. Use it with tomatoes, mozzarella, pasta, pesto, grilled vegetables, chicken, fish, and bruschetta.

Do not plant basil too early in cold spring soil. Wait until the weather is settled and warm.

Thyme

Thyme is a tough little herb with great kitchen value. It is excellent with roasted potatoes, chicken, fish, soups, stews, beans, and vegetables. It also looks beautiful at the front of a bed or along a path.

Rosemary

Rosemary has a strong, piney fragrance and is wonderful with meats, potatoes, breads, and grilled foods. In colder climates, grow it in a pot so it can be protected in winter.

Sage

Sage brings beautiful silver-green foliage and deep flavor. It is classic with poultry, pork, beans, butter sauces, stuffing, and autumn dishes. It also adds structure and color contrast to the garden.

Chives

Chives are one of the easiest and most rewarding herbs to grow. Their onion-like leaves are perfect for eggs, potatoes, soups, salads, dips, and herb butters. Their purple blossoms are edible and charming.

Mint

Mint is useful, refreshing, and a bit mischievous. Grow it in a pot because it can spread aggressively in the ground. Use it in iced tea, fruit salads, desserts, sauces, and summer drinks.

Lavender

Lavender is beautiful, fragrant, and beloved by pollinators. It needs sun and excellent drainage. Use it for bundles, sachets, simple crafts, and carefully in culinary projects when using the right variety.

This starter group gives you cooking flavor, fragrance, flowers, texture, and a strong beginning.

Containers or Raised Beds?

Both work beautifully.

Containers

Containers are perfect for patios, decks, porches, and small spaces. They let you place herbs close to the kitchen and control soil conditions more easily.

Containers are especially good for:

• Mint

• Rosemary

• Basil

• Parsley

• Thyme

• Small lavender plants

Choose pots with drainage holes. Herbs dislike soggy roots. Bigger pots are usually better than tiny ones because they dry out less quickly and give roots more room.

Raised Beds

Raised beds are excellent for a more permanent herb garden. They provide better drainage than many in-ground beds and make it easier to organize herbs by height, water needs, and use.

A small 4 x 4 or 4 x 8 raised bed can hold a very productive starter herb garden.

Place taller herbs such as rosemary or sage toward the back or center. Use lower herbs such as thyme and chives near the front edge. Keep mint in a pot, even if the pot sits inside or beside the raised bed.

Watering Wisdom

Most herbs dislike overly wet soil.

That does not mean they want to be neglected. It means they prefer thoughtful watering.

Water thoroughly, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. The top inch of soil can often tell you what is happening. If it feels damp, wait. If it feels dry, water.

Containers dry out faster than raised beds, especially in hot weather. A basil pot on a sunny deck may need water often. A thyme plant in a larger bed may need much less.

A good rule is:

Water the soil, not the leaves.

This helps reduce disease and keeps plants happier. Morning watering is usually best.

Harvesting: The Secret to Better Herbs

Regular clipping improves shape, encourages fuller growth, and increases harvest production.

Many herbs respond beautifully to being harvested. Basil becomes bushier when you pinch it. Chives keep producing when clipped. Thyme and oregano grow more densely with light trimming.

Do not wait until the plant becomes huge and woody before you harvest. Use herbs early and often.

For leafy herbs like basil, pinch just above a pair of leaves. For chives, cut leaves near the base. For thyme, clip small sprigs. For sage, harvest individual leaves or small stems.

The more you use the garden, the more it feels alive.

A Simple First-Year Layout

For a small raised bed or large container grouping, try this arrangement:

Back or center: rosemary, sage, lavender
Middle: basil, parsley, oregano
Front edge: thyme, chives
Separate pot: mint

This gives you height, fragrance, and easy harvesting. It also keeps the more aggressive mint under control.

Add plant labels if you like. Labels are especially helpful for guests, children, and new gardeners.

The Emotional Side of Herb Gardening

Herb gardening is practical, but it is also deeply satisfying.

It reconnects us to the seasons.
It brings fragrance into ordinary days.
It invites bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.
It makes cooking feel fresher.
It gives us useful plants to share.
It turns a porch, patio, or walkway into a living place.

There is something quietly powerful about stepping outside and clipping a few herbs for dinner. It changes the meal. It changes the mood. It reminds us that beauty and usefulness can grow together.

A starter herb garden is not just a collection of plants.

It is a small daily relationship.

Sidebar: The Easiest Starter Herb Pot

For a beginner container, plant:

• Basil

• Chives

• Parsley

• Thyme

Keep mint in a separate pot.

This little collection gives you herbs for eggs, potatoes, salads, tomatoes, soups, sauces, and summer cooking.

Sidebar: What to Make First

Once your herbs are growing, try one of these simple projects:

• Chive butter

• Basil bruschetta

• Mint iced tea

• Thyme roasted potatoes

• Sage butter for pasta

• Rosemary garlic bread

• Lavender sachets

• Fresh herb cream cheese

These quick wins make the garden feel rewarding right away.

Closing Thoughts

The starter herb garden is not the end goal.

It is the beginning.

It is the doorway into a richer herbal lifestyle — one where flavor, fragrance, beauty, pollinators, simple wellness, and everyday hospitality come together.

Start small.
Plant what you will use.
Keep it close.
Clip often.
Enjoy the fragrance.
Share what grows.

Soon enough, that little starter garden may lead to a larger herb bed, an edible landscape, a cottage border, a lavender walk, a potager, or a full living apothecary.

But it begins with one pot, one path edge, one raised bed, and one useful sprig clipped fresh for the table.

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