There’s a simple delight in stepping into the garden and plucking a sun-warmed strawberry straight from the vine. That moment of sweetness doesn’t just happen in spring—it begins with planning and preparation months earlier. August is your launchpad. While many gardeners think of strawberries as a spring project, late summer is the true time to design, prepare, and commit to a thriving strawberry patch.
Why August Matters for Strawberries
Soil Preparation Season – Summer warmth keeps soil workable, giving you the chance to enrich beds with compost, balance pH (ideal range: 5.5–6.5), and improve drainage before fall rains arrive.
Ordering Window – Nurseries often sell out of popular bare-root strawberry plants. Order now for fall or early-spring delivery.
Planting Opportunity (Mild Climates) – In zones with gentle winters, planting in August or September gives roots time to establish before cold weather sets in, leading to stronger spring growth.
Step-by-Step: Planning and Installing Strawberries
1. Site Selection
Choose a sunny location that receives at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight.
Avoid heavy, soggy soils that invite root rot.
Don’t plant where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants grew recently—these crops share diseases that can linger in the soil.
2. Soil Preparation
Mix 2–3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure into the top 8–10 inches of soil.
Test pH and adjust with garden sulfur (to lower) or lime (to raise) until slightly acidic (5.5–6.5).
For clay soils, add sand or leaf mold to improve drainage.
3. Layout Choices
Mattress Row: Allow plants to send out runners and form a matted bed—low effort, high yield.
Hill System: Clip runners to keep energy in the main plant—ideal for maximizing fruit size.
Containers/Vertical Towers: Great for patios and small spaces; keep soil light and well-drained.
4. Planting
Set crowns level with the soil surface (never buried).
Water deeply right after planting to settle roots.
Mulch with straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves to conserve moisture and keep fruit clean.
5. Care and Maintenance
Water consistently for 4–6 weeks while roots establish.
Pinch off flowers during the first season so plants direct energy to root and runner development.
Fertilize lightly after the first harvest (too much nitrogen encourages leaves over fruit).
Sidebar 1: Best Strawberry Cultivars
‘Allstar’ – Mid-season, disease-resistant, balanced flavor.
‘Jewel’ – Big, juicy berries for fresh eating or freezing.
‘Honeoye’ – Early, cold-hardy, reliable yields.
‘Seascape’ – Ever-bearing, fruits through summer into fall.
‘Albion’ – Sweet, firm, excellent for markets.
‘Ozark Beauty’ – Heavy-yielding ever-bearer, widely adaptable.
Sidebar 2: Types of Strawberries
June-Bearing: One large harvest in spring to early summer—perfect for jam and freezing.
Ever-Bearing: Two crops per season—lighter yields, but longer harvest window.
Day-Neutral: Continuous fruiting whenever temps stay between 35–85°F. Great for extended snacking.
August Planning = Next Summer’s Harvest
Planting strawberries is both practical and rewarding. With August foresight—choosing cultivars, preparing soil, and designing your patch—you’re laying the foundation for baskets of berries in seasons to come.
Whether you lean toward June-bearing for preserves, ever-bearing for extended picking, or day-neutral for steady snacks, your late-summer planning will bring sweet rewards.wards.
Summary:
Beginner’s Strawberry Planting Checklist
1. Timing (Why August Matters)
• Prepare soil while it’s warm and workable.
• Order bare-root plants now for fall or spring delivery.
• In mild climates, plant in late summer/early fall for strong spring growth.
2. Site Selection
• Choose full sun (6–8 hours daily).
• Avoid soggy areas and spots used for tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants.
3. Soil Preparation
• Incorporate 2–3 inches of compost or manure into topsoil.
• Ensure soil pH of 5.5–6.5.
• Improve drainage with sand or leaf mold if soil is heavy.
4. Layout Options
• Mattress Row – allows runners to spread naturally.
• Hill System – clip runners for larger berries.
• Containers/Vertical Towers – best for patios and small gardens.
5. Planting
• Set crowns at soil level (do not bury).
• Water thoroughly after planting.
• Mulch with straw, pine needles, or leaves
6. Care & Maintenance
• Water consistently for 4–6 weeks.
• Pinch flowers first season to encourage strong roots.
• Fertilize lightly after harvest.
7. Best Cultivars
• ‘Allstar’ – mid-season, disease-resistant.
• ‘Jewel’ – big, juicy berries.
• ‘Honeoye’ – early, cold-hardy.
• ‘Seascape’ – ever-bearing, long season.
• ‘Albion’ – sweet, firm berries.
• ‘Ozark Beauty’ – heavy-yielding ever-bearer.
8. Strawberry Types
• June-Bearing – one large spring harvest.
• Ever-Bearing – two smaller crops (spring & late summer).
• Day-Neutral – steady harvest all season in 35–85°F.
Until Next Time…
I am…
Phil Wilson…
And Here’s to Living an Herbal Lifestyle With You!
We plan on 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre or 1.4 lbs./1000 sq. ft. or about 1 - 1.5 Tabls. per plant.
Spray Mychoraezzae (sp?) beneficial bacteria and Molasses.
For beds of 4' X 8' use 12 plant starts (crown buds) with a row on the left side and right side.
Then, plant lettuce, garlic or tomatoes down the middle.
We can also use Plant Perk and Molasses as well as BerryBoost for crop boosters.
For strawberries also tend towards...
- Keeping weeds at bay.
- Use Slug-Go (organic phosphate) to take care of slugs while helping the plants, too.
- Great cultivar producers for the northeast include...
1. Galietta (Earliest)
2. Chandler (old reliable)
3. Ruby June (Plant in early September if possible)
4. AC Valley (Late)
5. Malwina (Latest)
6. FlavorFest (Better for southern climates)
7. Sensation (Florida variety)
8. Brilliance (Florida)
More tips coming~!